Jack Cunningham

Jack Cunningham’s Fragments & Curiosities (2011) exemplifies the potential of narrative jewelry to operate as both personal artifact and conceptual object. Composed of oxidized silver, Perspex, cultured pearls, 18ct gold, and found objects, the brooch functions as a miniature site of inquiry by layering visual symbolism with material juxtaposition to provoke open-ended interpretation.

Cunningham, a key figure in contemporary narrative jewelry, centers his practice on relationships, memory, and place. The brooch, a form he favors for its visibility and position on the chest, becomes a tool for storytelling without relying on traditional adornment structures like chains or ring shanks. In Fragments & Curiosities, the juxtaposition of anatomical illustration and diagrammatic imagery invites viewers to consider how the body is read, whether it’s scientifically, symbolically, or emotionally.

Crucial to Cunningham’s methodology is the triangulated relationship between maker, wearer, and viewer. The artist embeds autobiographical and cultural references, but resists fixed meaning. As Cunningham notes, “Once the work is in the public domain it is not really yours any more.” This intentional ambiguity allows the wearer to become a conduit, while the viewer becomes an active participant in the narrative.

Ultimately, the brooch is not merely a decorative object, but a discursive one—foregrounding jewelry as a platform for intellectual and emotional engagement.

References

Jack Cunningham. “Fragments & Curiosities.” Accessed July 18, 2025. https://www.jackcunningham.co.uk/.

Goldsmiths’ Centre. “Creative Links: Narrative Jewellery – Mark Fenn and Jack Cunningham Tell Tales (Full film).” Accessed July 18, 2025. https://www.goldsmiths-centre.org/learn-and-upskill/resources/knowledge-creative-links-narrative-jewellery-mark-fenn-and-jack-cunningham-full-film/.

Klimt02. “Narrative Jewellery.” Accessed July 18, 2025. https://klimt02.net/publications/books/narrative-jewelry-schiffer-publishing.

The Guardian. “A Jeweller’s Tale.” Accessed July 18, 2025. https://www.theguardian.com/education/2004/apr/27/workinprogress.highereducation.