Dermalgem Brooch #3 (2015) by Jill Baker Gower is an exploration of femininity, personal memory, and material contrast. Made from silicone rubber, sterling silver, garnets, and pearls, the brooch mimics organic, skin-like textures while incorporating traditional jewelry elements that evoke luxury and adornment. The irregular, fleshy form that is punctuated by embedded pearls suggests an interplay between softness and structure.
The brooch’s surface, resembling a biological growth or dermatological phenomenon, introduces a visceral quality that challenges conventional aesthetics in jewelry. The use of silicone, a synthetic material often associated with medical or cosmetic applications, reinforces themes of body modification, ornamentation, and the evolving relationship between the natural and the artificial. The small sterling silver component, etched with a delicate pattern, references traditional decorative arts, further embedding the work within a dialogue of historical craft and contemporary feminist critique.
Gower’s broader practice frequently draws from lace, crochet, and floral motifs—patterns historically tied to femininity and domesticity. In Dermalgem Brooch #3, this influence is more abstract but remains present in the careful between the ornamental and the grotesque. The piece ultimately asks the viewer to reconsider the boundaries of beauty, adornment, and the body, pushing jewelry beyond decoration into a space of critical reflection.
Eating Diamonds 